Blooming in Business
New York born Fashion designer Vanessa Knox was Head Designer at Victoria’s Secrets before moving to London in 2001. She co-founded the designer maternity label Isabella Oliver, whose designs have been loved and worn by A Listers such as Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lopez, Heidi Klum, Jessica Alba, and Gwen Stefani.
Following the huge success of the label, Vanessa decided to launch her own brand in 2011, aiming at the modern women who need a glamorous yet multi-tasking wardrobe. We catch up with Vanessa about the vision behind her new label and what it took to step out on her own…
What made you decide to set up and launch your own label?
I felt that there was a void between High Street and Designer so I wanted to create a collection that would offer well made, flattering clothes in fabulous fabrics at an affordable price. I also wanted to design a focused collection that I believed strongly in and wanted to wear myself. Clothes that are un-fussy, uncomplicated, that had an element of timelessness- not screaming the latest trend – so pieces that can live in your wardrobe season after season.
I also wanted address the “grown up” modern woman with the busy lifestyle. She needs clothes that carry her from day into evening, from the school run, and then into the office, and then on to the theatre, dinner etc. So the concept is about effortless chic and looks that can easily transform from day into evening simply by slipping on a sexy shoe or a piece of statement jewelry. I understand this woman as she is almost everyone I know! She doesn’t always have time to come home and change and she doesn’t want to look like she has spent hours getting ready (nor does she have the time).
One of our key pieces is the Anastasia Dress which best demonstrates the Vanessa Knox signature of multi – way dressing. Worn simply, the Anastasia Dress is a flattering tunic shape dress, which can be worn casual with flats or dressed up with heels or belted. It can also be wrapped, tied, or cinched to create about 10 different silhouettes (and counting).
Anastasia Dress. Multi-way Jersey Dress £170.
What was your greatest challenge and how did you overcome it?
My biggest challenge, or fear, was going it alone. Ironically it was also the thing that inspired and drove me the most. My original background is a purely creative one, I am a designer first, dealing with things like financial matters on my own, (where I am out of my comfort zone) was daunting. I have overcome this by having very good people around me who I trust and who are better at these things than me. One of them being my husband; my biggest fan and supporter. This allows me to concentrate on what I am good at and focus on the vision and designing.
What is the vision behind the Vanessa Knox label?
My vision is to provide a modern, versatile way of dressing and clothes that make the woman feel feminine, sexy and stylish, wherever she is, whatever she is doing. Our core signature fabric is jersey as I adore how jersey sculpts, drapes and moves with you. It is also such a versatile fabric that works for day or evening. Jersey dresses also make fabulous travel and holiday pieces as they are easy to pack and are fairly wrinkle free when you get to the other side.
Tatyana Dress. Side drape Jersey Dress £195.
Can you describe your design philosophy and why you have focused on maternity wear?
I wanted to focus on the modern woman’s lifestyle and the different aspects of her life on the whole, therefore we created a capsule collection that she could wear when she was pregnant. It is such a special time in a woman’s life and I strongly believe that she should look and feel feminine and beautiful always, especially when she is pregnant. Just because you are having a baby, it doesn’t mean that you stop caring about fashion and style and looking good. It is actually the best time to play up and embrace sexy curves and our core jersey fabrics help to do this beautifully. This range also has some great multi-tasking pieces that work when you are not pregnant as well. There are a couple of maternity pieces I will be wearing this Spring/Summer and I definitely have no more baby plans!
Veronique Dress (Empire Line Maternity Dress £170
What do you feel is the biggest concern for stylish pregnant women and how have you addressed this in your collections?
One of the biggest concerns is the idea of spending money on clothes they feel they will wear for only a short amount of time. So some try sticking with their pre-pregnancy clothes and jeans (I also did the rubber band waist band trick with my first), going up sizes in regular clothes, wearing their partner’s tops to get by, or they might buy inexpensive maternity items that don’t last. All of these things will get you by but going up a size isn’t always the most flattering option nor, will you feel feminine or pulled together in an oversized mens’ dress shirt. In relative terms the time you are pregnant is fairly short but what you don’t realise is that in that short time, you wear those clothes a lot in those 9 months, so if the quality isn’t good they will fall apart or fade in the wash and just not hold up or see you through your pregnancy, so it is a false economy in the end.
I have addressed this by offering a tight capsule collection that contains few great core basics, like the Gigi Capris, or the Melanie swing top as well as beautiful stylish dresses like the Veronique Dress, which again, could work in a multitude of ways. Many of the pieces work both when you are pregnant or not, so can they can live on in your wardrobe way after the baby is born. The fabric and workmanship are of a high quality and will withstand the demands of a hard working, hard wearing maternity wardrobe. They will also see you through your pregnancy in style.
What advice would you give to anyone wishing to launch their own fashion label?
Research is key – know who your customer is, and know the competitor landscape, also make sure you know what your USP is and why people will buy from you and not someone else. Keep your message clear and focused. Don’t try to do too much too soon, which can dilute your main message or offering. Expand over time once you have tested the market and been live for a while so you can clearly see what is working and what isn’t. Know what you are good at and play to your strengths. If possible try to get help in areas that are out of your comfort zone. It is a strength and not a weakness to know what you are not good at- you cannot do it all. Network and don’t be afraid to ask advice – you would be so surprised how helpful people can be when you are starting out – it is how it works and it all comes around. You may also make some valuable contacts and potential collaborators.
Anja Trousers Gold Metallic Linen Trousers £210. Irina Grecian One Shoulder Top £175
What inspired you to join The Sorority?
I loved the idea of having the opportunity to meet like-minded, accomplished and inspiring women from such varied and interesting backgrounds. I am also thrilled and honoured to be a part of such a supportive, positive organisation/ sisterhood.
Image Credits
Photography: Marc Rogoff
Styling: Tania Hamilton
